Development of topical formulation for skin depigmentation containing hydroalcoholic extract of Morus nigra L.
Morus nigra; tyrosinase; melanin; hyperpigmentation
“Skin hyperpigmentation can be characterized as a disorder in which there is excessive deposition of melanin. The causes of hyperpigmentation are diverse and can range from patient stress to metabolic disorders and response to skin trauma. During the stages of the melanogenesis process, tyrosinase acts as the main enzyme in the cascade of reactions that produce melanin, and therefore can be considered an excellent target of pharmacological interest for the development of topical formulations. The production of medicines and cosmetics from medicinal plants and their extracts is a historical and current reality, with trees of the genus Morus being part of this context. Previously described studies in the literature have demonstrated the inhibitory activity of the crude ethanolic extract of their leaves in relation to the enzyme tyrosinase; however, to date, there are no studies regarding the potential of the extract after removal of chlorophyll followed by incorporation into formulations. Therefore, this project aimed to produce, characterize and formulate a cosmetic from the hydroalcoholic extract obtained from the leaves of Morus nigra L. The collected plant material was dried in an oven at 40°C for 5 days, pulverized and characterized by weight/particle size and moisture content. Then, it was subjected to ethanolic extraction by cold maceration (1:5 m/v), filtered and rotary evaporated. To remove chlorophyll, the extract was resuspended in a hydroalcoholic solution methanol/water (1:1 v/v) followed by centrifugation at 4°C 10,000 rpm for 10 min. The supernatant was collected, rotary evaporated again and lyophilized. A total of six batches of extract were produced. The characterization of the extracts obtained was done by total solids content, extractive yield, thin layer chromatography and high performance liquid chromatography associated with a diode array detector. The extract’s inhibition potential against the tyrosinase enzyme and its cytotoxic effect on two cell lines, mouse fibroblast L929 and murine melanoma B16F10, were evaluated. Two formulations containing the extract, a nanoemulsion and a serum, were also produced. Both formulations were characterized by pH, viscosity, particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and conductivity. They are currently being evaluated in an accelerated stability test. Tyrosinase inhibition was above 90% for all batches at concentrations above 20 µg/mL; the overall average IC50 for the raw batches was 9.79 µg/mL and 10.81 µg/mL for the clean batches. The IC50 values for the extract’s cytotoxicity were all above 100 µg/mL. After six months of preparation, the formulations maintained their properties with little change and are still under observation.”